>
>I have a '73 MGB with a new engine. I rebuilt the carbs before
>installing the new engine, and Scott Fisher and I were able to tune
>both carbs (using a Colortune) when the engine first went in.
>
>Sometime in the first hundred miles the first carb started to run
>rich. That's the problem I can't correct. The engine is fine. I've
>done the 100-mile valve adjustment and head retorque and have
>proven (?) that the carb is the problem, there's no oil fouling and the
>electrical system (points, timing) is ok.
>The carbs are type SU HIF-4
>
>Here is a summary of changes to the carb. Before the new engine:
Dan lists just about everything I was about to try.
I have the same problem with my 74 MGB also with HIF4s. I was about to
purchase a Colortune to get the adjustment right, before I resorted to a carb
rebuild. I also checked valves, ignition, etc. I thought the Colortune would
do it since you and Scott seemed to have good luck with it initially. I'm
wondering about the worn throttle plates that Scott mentioned. Also Moss
has a note in their catalog about those spring loaded valves (can't think of
their real name now) in the plates themselves and recommends soldering them
shut. Anyone done this?
Mine actually runs real well on the road, just not at idle. It loads up,
and the idle speed keeps dropping..
>Any ideas before I take the carb in to a pro?
>-Dan Dasaro
Oh oh, I thought we were the pros. When a guy I work with says to find an
expert MG mechanic, I keep telling him that it should be me eventually.
Please let me know your outcome.
Carl
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