|
| The head was a BITCH to get off. And required some major whacking
| with a 2x4 and a hammer to get off.
I've done two of these in the last two weeks. What I did was remove
the head studs then crank the engine (with the rockers and push rods
removes) the pressure did the rest. If the air pressure won't do it
pull the spark plugs and put about 50 or 60 cc of oil in then put the
plugs back and crank it again.
|
| . Some of the pistons are scratched on the sides below the rings.
| Does this qualify them for replacement?
The scratches themselves aren't a big problem if the parts are in
spec, but the scratches may be an indicator of ware.
| . The cam is shot. Mostly the lobes are pitted, just plain ugly.
| Anyone got suggestions for a replacement? I'm not interested in
| something like a roller cam, but something with a *little* more lift
| might be attractive.. :-) My machine shop says that they can fix the
| old one. Anyone have that kind of work done? Can I believe them?
|
Howe bad is it? Will they be able to just grind it or do they have
to weld it? Welding gets into a lot of potential hardness problems. Welded cams
can chew lifters quickly. Or the weld may go away.
| . Some of the tappets are badly pitted too. Can I just replace the
| pitted ones? Or it is best to replace them all?
If you are using a new or refinnished cam you should use all new or
at least resurfaced lifters. If you were putting your old cam back in
you should make sure the lifters go on the same lobe they were on before.
| . I had one bearing in it that was scored, big time. That was on
| number one. The crank isn't in bad shape at all, but I'm going to
| have it turned to make sure it's real smooth. My quote for that was
| $75. The engine is going to get new bearings all around of course.
|
Have your machine shop measure it first, it maybe fine without grinding
| . My machine shop says that I can't put in new valve guides without a
| press? Is that true? Any tricks I should know about? They also
| suggest that they rebuild the head, not me. Uh, I feel like I could
| do it, but then again I've never done it so... Have any of you guys
| rebuild a head in your garage? (or in the kitchen sink for that
| matter... ;-)
|
You don't own a valve grinder do you? You might be able to do it, but
if you are new to this kind of thing, I'd let them
| . Does anyone know what the thickness of the clutch disk is supposed
| to be when new? TRF doesn't seem to list the spec, nor does my Haynes
| manual. I was told that the clutch was new, but from the clutches I
| have seen, it hardly looks new. It's not worn out, but I want to
| replace it since I've got this sucker completely apart.
|
Look at how deep the rivets are recessed onto the surface. If they are
less then ~1mm then I'd say it's starting to show ware.
| . I would like to raise the compression on this engine just a tad.
| Stock it's at 7.75, and I'd like to see 8.5 like the earlier engines.
| Am I being stupid, or is this a good idea?
reasonable
|
| ---
| "Well, if you can't believe what you read in a comic book, what *can*
| you believe?!" -- Bullwinkle J. Moose [Jay Ward]
|
reasonable :^)
| Scott Paisley paisley@cme.nist.gov ..!uunet!cme-durer!paisley
|
Have a good time/dick
|