I don't, though not for the reason you mention. :^))
The brake booster only affects how hard it is to push
the pedal. It has no bearing on whether the brakes
work, or not, unless you're not strong enough to push
the pedal that is. :^))
It sounds as though at some point in time either the
rear brakes failed, or more likely, that when they
were bled, the valve wasn't held in position so that
it wouldn't transfer all fluid to the fronts. The
valve can't differentiate between bleeding and a
catastrophic failure.
There's a pin that should stick out the front of the
valve and must be held with a clamp, vise grips,
whatever, while bleeding to keep this from happening.
You may have to open the rear bleeders to allow the
pin to be pulled out.
If this isn't the problem, then the only other
possibilities is a defective master cylinder, or
blocked rear supply line.
I'm betting on the valve though. :^))
FWIW, WRT the booster pt.#, I had a rebuilder do mine
for less than another one cost.
GM
----- Original Message -----
> Well everyone seams to doubt the proportioning
valve is the problem, but it
> really looks that way to me. The brakes light is
on in the car, and we know
> that the drum brakes are adjusted correctly. Its
just that a very small
> amount of brake fluid (and pressure) is getting to
the rear brakes. Lack of
> power = power booster / lack of fluid seams to me
that the valve has sensed
> a drop in pressure and to keep the system running,
it has diverted power to
> the front and virtually shut it off to the back.
It is also interesting
> that both rear brakes function (or do not rather)
identically. I believe
> that I have to reset the proportioning valve -
whatever that means. Anyone
> else want to shed some light?
>
>
> Thanks for the experienced tips - nothing beats it!
That's why I come here
> first!
>
> Dave
>
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