Well, my thought is that is a valid idea, but instead of an absolute
measurement of pressure, you need to check for sudden drops in pressure.
Say you're running at 12psi and it goes to 5psi in 3 seconds or less. That
could be a blown hose.
My 2 cents worth. Make sure you send me a royality check. :)
----- Original Message -----
From: K M <symbiotic@hotmail.com>
To: <rileym3@hotmail.com>; <Bricklin@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 8:12 PM
Subject: Re: Save Your Engine!
> >It's called a Coolant Pressure Warning Sensor. Right now the product is
> >nothing more than an idea in my head, which is why I'm posting this.
> >There's lots of knowledgeable people on this list that could give me the
> >tidbits of info I need to make this thing work.
> >
> >The dodge has a radiator cap rated at 13psi. So if it were to drop to
> >10psi, that would indicate a serious loss of coolant.
>
> Far be it from me to rain on someone's parade -- I am about to get my
first
> patent issued from the uspto (provisional applied for last Nov -- patent
> applied for May, response from patent office in September, patent to
likely
> issue early 200), so I love letting thoughts go wild. However, the
thoughts
> need to mesh with the engineering. I don't think that yours quite do.
>
> A drop in the pressure does not, in and of itself, indicate a serious loss
> of coolant. In fact, when a car is started and before it reaches
operating
> temperature, the pressure goes from zero for a long time and then slowly
> proceeds up. You can run your engine without damage with zero psi -- no
> problem so long as there is ample cooling capacity. The reason for the
> pressurized system (and coolant) is to allow the fluid to get hotter than
> 212 f and not to boil. When I used to make electricity, the boiler got
the
> water to 1,000 degrees f at about 2,800 psi (imagine that, water that was
> twice as hot as the temperature at which paper burns).
>
> Riley, keep in mind that most times when a car overheats, the radiator
boils
> over -- that means that the pressure inside they system is higher than the
> cap's rated pressure (that the water is too hot). Of course, if there is
> not fluid in the system, then the engine overheats without any pressure
> differential at all -- and without fluid the temperature sensor may not
> work.
>
> By the way, as with my idea, the idea is the easy part. What you ask for
> below is what I am trying to determine for my patent and it is hard, hard
> indeed, to find answers to those questions. Kim
>
> >Here is information I need from you techies out there:
> >what to use as the sensor including name and appox. cost.
> >all other hardware to make it work.
> >Implementation via the radiator cap or thermostat (which is best?)
> >any other important info.
> >
> >Thanks in advance,
> >Riley F. Marquis III
>
>
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