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Save Your Engine!

To: Bricklin@autox.team.net
Subject: Save Your Engine!
From: "Riley Marquis III" <rileym3@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 16:50:20 PST
Greetings!
Well, after $1800 into the engine rebuild with a new factory head, $300 for 
a turbo rebuild, and 30K miles, I'd might as well assume that the dodge is 
toast...
Time to fix the Bricklin! Where I'll get the money I don't know...
Of course, the dodge could be fine, especially since the past few months 
worth of overheating were caused by two heater hoses that were leaking 
coolant and needed replacement...an expensive mistake.  Dad and I checked 
the major hoses, but the culprits were under the car.

The expensive mistake may be overshadowed by a new product which can prevent 
this from happening in the future to any car, but especially rare finds like 
our Gullwings...
It's called a Coolant Pressure Warning Sensor.  Right now the product is 
nothing more than an idea in my head, which is why I'm posting this.  
There's lots of knowledgeable people on this list that could give me the 
tidbits of info I need to make this thing work.

The dodge has a radiator cap rated at 13psi.  So if it were to drop to 
10psi, that would indicate a serious loss of coolant.  When the pressure 
drops to this level, a buzzer can be triggered along with a warning light to 
alert the driver to stop ASAP and do a thorough check of all hoses etc.  
Another feature to be introduced later on could be thermostat protection, 
which triggers the buzzer in a repetitive "beep" fashion with a blinking 
warning light to indicate that the thermostat failed to open.

Here is information I need from you techies out there:
what to use as the sensor including name and appox. cost.
all other hardware to make it work.
Implementation via the radiator cap or thermostat (which is best?)
any other important info.

Thanks in advance,
Riley F. Marquis III


p.s.  instead of tack welding the "boomerang" to the door, is there a 
"compound" i can use which has the opposite effect of anti-seize compound 
(i.e. accellerate the chemical welding known as seizure)?
Also, I only need 100 degrees Farenheight to unbond the doors.  If my 
soldering gun generates that kind of heat (possibly 300 F) can I use that 
instead of a heat gun?  My door skin is unglued completely in many good size 
places...


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