Having built electrical /electronic systems for vehicles for several years,
we did not trust simple crimped connections to last. We always soldered
the wires after crimping.
----------
> From: John T. Blair <jblair@exis.net>
> To: Bricklin@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Blessing In Disguise
> Date: Saturday, April 03, 1999 7:29 AM
>
> At 10:33 PM 4/2/99 -0800, you wrote:
>
>
> >Now all I have to to is extend the wiring so I can put the inside door
> >switches in the console. It appears that the console I have has not
been
> >designed with the same switch mounting points as the factory console.
> >Anybody run across this? What is the easiest way to extend the wiring?
> >Whatever it is, I'm sure that I will be extending 14 wires!
>
> Riley,
>
> Since the wires have spade lugs on the to slip onto the swtiches, I'd
> suggest that you by a package of male and female spades, some wire, and
> a roll of electrical tape. Cut the extension strips off the roll of wire
> and SOLDER a male and a felmale spade to the wire. Do NOT, mearly try
> and crip them. I've been chasing electrical problems on several of my
> previously owned cars. Most of the problems come back to the fact that
> the crimps aren't tight and the wires are pulling out of the spades.
>
> Now all you have to do, is pull one wire off the switch, plug the male
> end of your extension wire into it, and plug the female onto the switch.
> You won't have to worry about getting the wires mixed up or anything!
>
> >Also, I noticed that my driver side 1/4 window came loose...way loose!
> >Now I have an excuse to go ahead and purchase a T50 torx driver and
> >remove the interior 1/4 panel.
>
> I don't understand the connection between the seat belt bolts and the
> 1/4 glass. They are seperated by about 4' and have nothing in common.
> As to removing the seat belt bolts, good luck. It depends on how badly
> your car is rusting. On 887, I broke 3 Torx sockets trying to undo the
> seatbelt bolts. I finally had to cut them out. It took me several
> hours for each one!
>
> >3: I remember someone mentioning painting the inside of the body panels
> >flat black so the car doesn't have a "translucent" look or something
like
> >that. what paint should I ask for? (e.g. part #)
>
> I don't suggest painting the floor boards. They are supposed to be
> natural fiberglass. If you paint them with a flat black you will loose
> points in a show (if you care). If you want to protect the floor boards,
> I'd suggest cleaning them up and either applying another coat of
fiberglass
> resin (which is what I'm doing) or paint them with clear POR-15 (which is
> what George Malaska is doing).
>
> John
>
> John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
> Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
>
> 48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
> 71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
>
> www.team.net/www/morgan bricklin.shel.olsy-na.com/bi
>
|