No, the front seal is just that, a seal for the rod / front chamber.
The rod has a small flange where it attaches to the diaphragm. On
the other side of the diaphragm is small washer that the end of the
rod is peened to to hold it in place. The flange / washer assembly
is too small to properly hold the diaphragm. The outer perimeter of
the diaphragm is pinched in the fold over joint of the two canister
halves. Mine tore away from the diaphragm. I've cut open mine and
Vette canisters, that's why I know for sure. You can have a small
hole in the diaphragm and / or leakage around the rod mounting point
and they will still close, but if you can raise the door with both
vacuum ports sealed, then the diaphragm is leaking for some reason.
You may only need rod seals, but I just think you should check the
diaphragms before spending the time / money for seals.
GM
-----Original Message-----
>Greg, I think that the diaphram you are describing is the front
seal
>because the tearing away from the rod's retaining washers sounds
like
>the seal (unless I am missing something). Also, since the doors
come
>down properly I don't think that it can be the diaphram. Perhaps I
have
>a misunderstanding about how these are made (I haven't taken one
apart),
>but I think that it is a metal can with inlets at either end. In
the
>center of the can there is a diaphram connected to a rod that goes
out
>of the "front" of the can and hooks to the headlight mechanixm. At
the
>backside of the can there is nothing but the inlet so when vacuum
is
>present, the diaphram and, hence the rod moves back. When vacuum is
>present in the front of the can, the reverse happens unless, of
course,
>there is a leak in the seal around the rod because then there would
be
>no vacuum. Is that your understanding? Did you get a chance to
look at
>the directions on the website I listed. They have pictures of the
seal
>and I was wondering if that is what you meant. Kim
>
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