Yeah I keep telling Jeff to pop in a Quaife and run that sucker in
STX!:)
Remember he's also running stock springs and shocks, so there's a budget
limited amount of things to tune around a disconnected rear bar.
I'm really surprised you had that problem on Richard's car. I thought
the Quaife/Torsen type diff was effective unless one wheel was
practically off the ground, then it would go open. I can't imagine a
stock E30 having a stiff enough rear bar to pick a wheel clean off the
ground. And E30s have tremendous rear wheel travel on the rebound side,
I practically had to tip my Z3 over on its side and rest it on the door
mirror in order to change tires!
Another thing you want to make sure of if you are having odd,
unexplainable bar problems is that everything is greased up and moves
freely and there is no geometry induced binding of the endlinks.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: SFRASER1234@aol.com [mailto:SFRASER1234@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2003 5:34 PM
To: ba-autox-digest@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Sways, How much bar is too much bar?
I can tell you first hand from Richard V. DSP E30 BMW (different
suspension but same problems). The car is coil-overed with an ok
suspension set-up.
We started with aftermarket sway bars, the car felt, ok yet slightly
sideways. We first jumped to the largest front bar we could find, and
had a the same rear bar. The BMW was starting to work better yet it
would spin the rear inside. Next we install the Quaiffe diff. On a good
surface the car would spin the rear inside tire (with the quaiffe
diff.). We ended up tightening the front bar as tight as possible and
loosening the rear, better but still wheel spin. We ended up completely
removing the rear sway bar and the car finally started to work.
So in other words I agree with Peter, but would start slightly farther.
Take 1 of the links off the rear sway bar (disconnect it) and try it on
a good surface.
Good Luck,
Scott Fraser
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