In a message dated 2/9/02 4:05:13 AM Central Standard Time,
owner-ax-digest@autox.team.net writes:
<< I'm right in the process of doing the same thing...just make sure you run 2
gauge cable back to the battery. Anything less is too small. Are you going
to run it all the way to the trunk area or right behind the front passenger
seat. I think I'm going to end up running mine to the trunk area. Not sure
yet though. Anyways, Sears makes a DieHard Gold for $39.99 with 340CCA.
Thats about the best I found. Their book listed it at 19 lbs but think it
might actually be lighter..feels like it. Other than that its pretty
straight forward...Oh, and they are 12V. >>
I ran the "DieHard GOLD" lawn tractor battery a few years back. Starting the
car was no problem at all, rvrn in serious cold. It actually cranked fast
with no hesitation. I have the battery in the trunk and run a #3 wire about 6
feet from battery directly to the starter. The engine was a 9 to 1 compresion
2.4L, but with a geared reduction starter. I even ran my cooling fabs for
good chunks of time with the engine off, they pull about 22 amps. The only
problem turned out to be batery life, and it seems to be caused by the
charging system. Car alternators are voltage regulated, and the current limit
is 50-60-100 whatever amps. Once the battery is fully charged up, there does
not seem to be a problem, but once you do discharge it a bit, like right
after every start, the alternator tries to push 13.8 or 14.2 volts to the
battery terminals, and the current could be 20 or more amps. The small plates
in the lawn tractor battery just can't take it, and it failed in less than a
race season.
My car is rear drive, and a bit left heavy, so I am back to running a full
size car battery in the right rear corner to help balance out the car. If you
need weight anyways, migth as well have it help matters.
Gary M.
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