A couple of questions about renovating bodies. You mention that dipping
cleans areas that are inacessable to blasting and are not noticable until
the body is dipped. How do you protect these when you are reconditioning
the body?
I am not interested in blasting the surface of my car (it is already in
decent shape and primered), but the undercarriage will need some major
cleaning and painting for protection. I have the stuff to blast. The car
needs a good cleaning to a paintable surface and being a diehard "I can do
it, therefor I will" individual, will do it myself. I mean, that is what
this car is all about to me. Well, myself and a generous quantity of beer.
Anywho, what is the best way for a DIY to proceed? BTW, I intend to build
something that will allow me to turn it upside down for decent access.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Spencer" <ian@sunbeamalpine.org>
To: "Victor Hughes" <hughes@scides.canberra.edu.au>
Cc: "jumpin'jan" <servaij@cris.com>; "Alpine List" <alpines@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: Stripping Paint
> One bad experience with sand or bead blasting is getting all the media
cleaned
> up after the job is done. No matter how hard you try, it always seems to
keep
> coming back... even after the car is finished. Also, blasting only gets
the
> exposed metal. Dipping get's it all, inside and out. Remember, Alpines
rust from
> the inside out. I've seen many "Rust free" Alpines that had areas of metal
that
> were paper thin. I've got one in my garage now that the DPO swore was a
rust
> free car. It even looked solid, until I started poking around. Anyhow,
back to
> blasting... One of the biggest concerns about blasting is the person doing
the
> job. If they don't know what they are doing, they can screw a car up very
> quickly. I too had a BMW blasted prior to restoration. The guy used
conventional
> sand and warped most of the panels. It was a very expensive mistake!
Regular
> sand will get too hot. There are special medias designed just for
automotive
> work. Don't feel like you did something wrong by having your car
blasted...
> there are many ways to skin a cat! BUT, Jan and I both agree... from our
> experience, that dipping is the only was to go. The body comes back VERY
clean
> and when the rusty areas are cut away to begin sheet metal repairs, you
have
> nice clean metal inside to work with that makes welding a pleasent job. I
> believe dipping makes the whole job much easier in the long run. My 2
cents...
> Ian
>
> Victor Hughes wrote:
>
> > jumpin'jan wrote
> >
> > > 3) If you are after a COMPLETE body restoration (body stripped to bare
> > > sheet metal everywhere), the only option is to dip the body. DON'T
> > > SANDBLAST IT.
> >
> > Jan - can you tell us why - I had a BMW sandblasted and refinished -
> > finished job was stunning - can show you photos. Also, do you object to
> > bead blasting? I had this done on the Alpine and again the finished job
is
> > excellent. I'm afraid dipping was just not an option in this li'l ole
town.
> >
> > Vic
> >
> > >
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