CANISDOG@aol.com wrote:
> First, I didn't find any of the ring gear bolts loose as I had thought I
> would. Should I still change these?
Paul,
Pull the bolts and red Loctite them.
> With the differential out of the
> pumpkin, is there any way to identify these gears as to the ratio and or
> year?
Huh? Count the teeth and divide pinion number into ring number. All the
years are the same.
> "yellow" paint markings on it. The only reason I need to know is to get the
> right pinion seal from Rick. I guess I can just pull it out and get some #'s
> off of it.
Remember, that the early rear ends used a different axle spline and the
early axle bearings are sealless. Is your car a later model? The early
seal is a larger metal seal, compared to the later series.
> Rick lists two (2) thickness' of gaskets for the end of the axle housing and
> says "6 per car." My question is what the difference? I called Rick and
> asked this question and got the smart-ass answer of "about .004 thousands."
Rick is correct. The brown paper shims are 0.010".
> So. What is the story on these? Is there something I need to "mic" when
> installing the axles? If I miss this gasket by .004 my car will flip over at
> 60 mph and grind my face off! What's the deal!
My advice is to get a dial indicator setup to measure the axle end
float. Install the gaskets enough to get some slop, then start setting
the end float to the value in the Sunbeam manual. I found that I need to
set one side initially, then the opposite side, and back to the other
side. I have done about 6 Alpine rear ends this past year so far.
Jan
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