John, check for leaks at the front seal and rear seal. If you have a
leak coming from the engine/gearbox joint, you can check for leaks after
removing the gearbox by leaving it in a tilted position for a few days
and look for oil. Also, check for leaks at the rear of the top cover
shift rails, it may be a good time to replace the three o-rings. Check
for excessive runout of the input shaft. Otherwise if your gearbox
seems ok and shifts well, I would leave it alone.
Of course as others have said, checking the thrust washers before hand
is a good idea, but I don't think you necessarily need to do anything
now if the crankshaft play is in spec.
When you remove the gearbox from the engine, pay close attention to the
bolts. There are typically two slightly larger bolts at the 2 o'clock
and 8 o'clock positions that act like dowel pins to keep the gearbox
input shaft at the right angle, otherwise you risk getting clutch judder
after you put the gearbox back in.
John Lumia
76 TR6
Louisville, CO
John wrote:>
Could someone send me a list of things to check / to do / to buy when
you pull your gearbox? I'm going to be pulling
it sometime this fall/winter to do some clutch work and since I'll have
the sucker out of the car, I want to make sure
I do everything generally recommended when the gear box is out (for
example, installing a second fork pin, new
bellhousing bushings, consider having the transmission overhauled,
etc.). I know that's asking for a bad case of
shipwright's disease, but I really don't want to pull the gearbox again
in the near future. Thanks.
John V.
1974 1/2 TR6
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