Bill:
I HATE it when that happens. I fix something, and it is worse
when I am done fixing it than when I started!!! It's enough to turn an
otherwise decent man into a clock tower sniper. I discover a new found
fascination with polishing my assault rifle. (Take THAT, oh prince of
darkness! POW, POW, POW! Bwuh-hah-hah-haaaaah!) But I feel much better
now that I am on medication....
Ahem. Where was I? Oh, yeah. I have not worked on the 1970s ZS,
but I believe that the earlier carbs did not have the vent levers. If
your car does not have a carbon canister then it will not have the vent
levers, as the vent levers were used to route the vapors from the float
bowl to the carbon canister where they are temporarily stored. The lever
toggles a valve that sends the vapors to the canister when the car is
not running, or to the intake for burning when the car is running.
If you are getting fuel leaking out, your needle valve is stuck,
or the float level is set incorrectly. Sorry, but I think you will need
to disassemble the carb again.
If you want to borrow my assault rifle, let me know.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill & Skip Pugh
Sent: May 12, 2006 7:56 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Stromberg Leak
Hi Listers,
I have been using Nelson Riedel's excellent guide (Buckeye
Site) for repairing and tuning the Strombergs on my 1970 TR6. All
has gone well until today, when I started the car in preparation for
tuning, gas was flowing out from the float chamber vent port on the
rear carb. I had installed new floats and drain hole plug ... prior
to this the rear carb seemed to be the one working the best.
In Part II of the guide it has instructions for adjusting the
vent lever ... I can find no such lever on my carb ... they are
labeled as 175 CD-2s ... and are supposedly the " correct" ones for
the 1970 TR6
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your time
--
Bill Pugh
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