Cary----The best place for adding the "second" pin to the fork is on a
machined flat located on the back side of this casting. It is near
center and about 9/16" in diam. (Can't miss it)
A roll pin should work fine, as Vance wrote. A slight pre-squeezing the
roll pin with a pair of ViseGrips prior to installing makes it easier to
fit.
A bolt will also work, and best if there is no clearance between the
bolt and the drilled hole. (The bolt is not used as a locator. The
original, tapered pin does this)
I used a 1/4:x28 Allen cap screw, with a shank (unthreaded) length of
1-1/2 inches, cutting off excess thread length and using washers under
the nyloc nut. These bolts tend to be slightly oversize in diameter, so
the 1/4 inch drill bit and a drill press left a nice, snug fit when the
bolt was tapped in. Whether using a roll pin or a bolt, it must be added
after the shaft is installed into the bell housing,. All preliminating
fitting is done while the transmission is out, of course.
You could use a shaft of the right size to align the clutch disc, but
it's easier and cheap to use the clutch alignment tool. Some parts
suppliers include these when buying their clutch kits.
The pilot bushing part no, is shown in the parts catalogues. You'll want
the one for the "later" engine.
Dick Taylor
From: caryhenry@hotmail.com(Cary Henry) Hello All,
.....I have seen mentioned before drilling and bolting the fork. What
does this do and how is it done?
Also, will I need to purchase a clutch alignment tool?
-Cary-
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