Cary,
Oh the joy of the clutch!
Drilling the cross shaft is relatively painless...what
the posts are eluding to would be the tendancy of the
fork pin breaking....then you have a fork that spins
on the cross shaft. Not much fun having to pull the
gearbox again. So, get yourself a fork pin(bolt) &
tighten it down. Then you drill through the fork and
the cross shaft & put a grade 8 nut/bolt down through
the hole...not too long as you don't want it
interfering with anything.
Oh, aside from the input seal, consider the bushing in
the flywheel...they tend to wear out. This may
require pulling the flywheel depending on model
year(you didn't list). You may also want to do the
rear main seal(requires flywheel removal as well as
the engine back plate...not hard...up to you.
I also did the cross shaft bushings...I figured I
didn't want to go through all that again for a while.
My 2 cents
Cheers,
Todd Bermudez
CD198L
CF25768UO
--- Cary Henry <caryhenry@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Hello All,
> I will be replacing the clutch on my project TR6
> this weekend, and I have a
> few questions. I purchased a TRF magic clutch kit
> with koyo bearing and the
> clutch hardware package required to activate
> warranty. I have seen
> mentioned before drilling and bolting the fork.
> What does this do and how
> is it done? Also, will I need to purchase a clutch
> alignment tool? This is
> my first clutch replacement. I have replaced torque
> converters and such but
> never a clutch. Any reccomendations not stated in
> the bentley manual are
> greatly appreciated. I also plan to replace the
> input seal and gasket while
> I have the gearbox off. Thanks for all of your
> help!
> -Cary-
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