Cary:
I used a 3/16" roll pin. Using a bolt requires trimming so that
threaded portion
is not supporting the fork, rather there should only be enough thread to
hold the nyloc
nut. Trimming the bolt is easy, but it another step to take care of.
Also, the bolt will
not end up being a press fit, so it really won't share much of the load
unless the fork
pin deforms or fractures. This will allow the fork to rotate enough that
the bolt will
then take up the load, IMHO.
Having mentioned the drawbacks to the bolt, I should mention the
drawbacks to the
roll pin approach. It is a press fit, so it will effectively share the
load with the
fork pin - HOWEVER - the pin is spring loaded, and so have a small
amount of yield
as it shares the load. Is this an issue? Dunno - but time will tell.
Cross drilling the fork and shaft is easy - the fork is iron,
the cross shaft is
mild steel. An ordinary drill with a sharp tool steel bit will get the
job done in under
1 minute.
Todd is correct - the issue is to make sure the fork pin doesn't
break. They are
prone to do so. My DPO had it happen to him, his solution was to weld
the fork to
the shaft rather than fix it. When I bought the car, the welds had
broken, and I had
to use a hacksaw to get the cross shaft out. <Sigh.>
If you are using anything other than a street type clutch, then
the forces on the
fork pin will go up, and fracture is more likely. So if possible stick
with a street style
clutch, preferably the original Laycock or a yellow spot Bork and Beck
with it's lighter
clutch pedal effort. It is possible that if you stick with the lighter
clutch, the
cross drilling may not even be necessary, but why take the chance?
AFAIK, people using either the bolt or the roll pin have had 0
fork pin failures,
so I suppose both approaches are sound. Is there anyone out there who
had had a failure
with a cross drilled fork? If so, what were you using as the
supplemental fastener for
the fork?
Cheers,
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Todd Bermudez
Sent: January 31, 2006 7:34 AM
To: Cary Henry; 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Clutch Replacement
Cary,
Oh the joy of the clutch!
Drilling the cross shaft is relatively painless...what
the posts are eluding to would be the tendancy of the
fork pin breaking....then you have a fork that spins
on the cross shaft. Not much fun having to pull the
gearbox again. So, get yourself a fork pin(bolt) &
tighten it down. Then you drill through the fork and
the cross shaft & put a grade 8 nut/bolt down through
the hole...not too long as you don't want it
interfering with anything.
<snip>
My 2 cents
Cheers,
Todd Bermudez
CD198L
CF25768UO
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