Hi,
You have a couple of choices.
The stock stud has a smallish "knurl", I believe it is .518. If you can
find a 7/16-20 stud with a larger knurl, you could probably make it work,
but you'll have to ream the hub flange to the proper size to get it to
fit. I have used aftermarket 7/16-20 studs that have a .615 knurl and I
had to obtain a special reamer (for about $50) to get the hubs reamed.
If the "slop" isn't too bad, you might be able to get away with some epoxy
such as JB Weld. This would fall under the DPO catagory, but if it works,
and you can drive your car, tehn that's a good thing.
The thing to keep in mind here is that the knurl on the stud only has to
take the torque if the lugnet (and a tad more for good measure) - it is
mounted in "shear" for the wheels - so welding would be serious overkill
(not to mention that you could distort the hub flange by welding it, and
that's a bad thing).
I've been to well stocked parts places (like NAPA) and found aftermarket
and OEM-style studs that should work with a min. of "fuss". Just get a
good, accurate measure of the hole that's there now and see if you can
fnid something from a GM that might fit (look in the book). The critical
dimensions are the knurl diameter, the depth (or length) of the knurl, the
size of the head of the stud (youneed to fit inside the flat part of the
casting) and then the overall length of the stud. Once you have all those
dimensions, a replacement stuf from any suorce can be used.
Something tells me that this particular stud may have had an encounter
with an impact wrench that was set very high. :-(
rml
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