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RE: Clutch not disengaging

To: "John Mitchell" <jmitch@snet.net>, "6-Pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: Clutch not disengaging
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2004 09:16:04 -0800
 John:

        I am going through this now, having gone through much
of this while rebuilding my tranny and adding a J-type overdrive.
        The clutch design is marginal in that everything must be working
perfectly, or you will have problems. My DPO had a broken
fork pin, and instead of fixing it welded the fork to the cross
shaft. He was so inept, even this didn't work because the welding
soon broke and allowed the fork to rotate on the cross shaft.
        Anyway, I will ask a few questions, hopefully they will
put you on the right track:

        1. Did you install a new fork pin? Did you tighten it
         sufficiently so that the fork could not move on 
         the shaft?
        2. Did you replace the fork pins that ride on the bearing
         sleeve? They develop flat spots, which reduces
         clutch travel.
        3. Did you replace your cross shaft bushings? They wear
         and reduce travel. Was your cross shaft inspected to
         make certain that it had not worn where the shaft rides
         in the bushings?
        4. Did you install a fresh clevis pin on the slave cylinder 
         push rod linkage? Is your slave cylinder push rod installed
         in the center hole of the cross shaft arm? Is the push rod
         hole worn where the clevis pin is inserted?
        5. Did you install the slave cylinder with it's mounting ears
         on the rear side of it's mounting plate (towards the trunk)?
        6. When you mated the tranny to the engine, did you install
         the two 3/8" bolts first? These act as guides to aid in 
         centering the tranny w/respect to the motor.
        7. Is your master cylinder in good shape? Did you adequately
         bleed the system when you were finished? Are there any
         signs of leaking or fluid dripping?
        8. Did you swap any parts between cars? Earlier cars had a 
         different flywheel and crank from the later cars, and they
         cannot be mixed.
        9. How are your thrust bearings? If they are worn (or worse,
         have fallen out into the pan) the crank will move when you
         try to disengage the clutch, limiting the release. Did you
         check your crankshaft end play?

        Hopefully the answer lies in there somewhere. Let us know what
you find...

        Cheers,

        Vance


------------------------------
1974 Mimosa Yellow Triumph TR6
Cogito Ergo Zoom 
(I think, therefore I go fast)
 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Mitchell
Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2004 12:10 PM
To: 6-Pack; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Clutch not disengaging

Hi everyone, its me with my transmission again:   Just bolted it up and 
find that the clutch won't disengage.   I was thinking that the slave 
wasnt going far enough.  I put a pipe on the fork arm and did get some 
disengagement, but still felt the friction disk dragging just a bit.  I 
put the thicker part of the friction disk(with the springs) away from 
the flywheel.  Could I have it in backwards?   Its a Sachs clutch with a

Gunst TO bearing.  Advice would really be appreciated.

 

John Mitchell  76 TR6





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