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Re: Clutch not disengaging

To: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor@webtv.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch not disengaging
From: John Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>
Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 22:09:09 -0500
Ok, Now I understand,  I was looking for a bolt on the transmission 
itself, Duh.  As soon a you said floorboard, I knew which transmission 
cover you guys were talking about.   Thanks so much.  Now just have to 
figure my clutch problem out.  I seem to be getting plenty of travel, so 
its something else.  Wish I hadnt installed all the boldt before 
testing!       Thanks again,  John Mitchell

Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

>John---Your clutch disc is in the right orientation. Note that most of
>the discs will be stamped "flywheel side".  Can't tell you exactly why
>your clutch isn't disengaging. If the clutch arm moves 1/2 inch or so
>towards the rear of the car during the disengagement motion and the
>clutch still doesn't release, I'm afraid that you'll have to remove the
>tranny again to see where the transfer of motion broke down. (The usual
>suspect is the fork pin)
>
>So far as to where to attach the "strap" for preloading the Gunst
>bearing, the best and recomended place is one of the transmission cover
>bolts. Remove the (shorter) bolt from inside the cockpit, and replace it
>with the one in the kit. Ths longer bolt will extend down thru the
>captive nut on the floor pan far enough to connect one end of the strap.
>(The other end of the strap connects to the spring, which connects to
>the bottom hole of the three- holed operating arm.  Keep in mnd that the
>spring that preloads the throwout bearing must pull the clutch arm
>towards the rear of the car. The spring will extend 1/2 inch more than
>its original length when in the right position, with the clutch at rest.
>This is where you drill the hole in the strap, to give a preload of
>about 15 lb. The bearing will then spin full time with the clutch.
>
>Dick





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