John,
I've done this job a few times, and I agree with you that it can be a
bit tough to remove these bolts when laying under the car - it's kinda
hard to get good leverage. And on top of that, the nyloc nuts can be
easily rounded off if you do things wrong, and then you're really
screwed.
However, I have found that it's possible to do this job without being
under the car. Jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheels.
Fold back the rubber boot that covers the inner UJ, so that you can see
the bolt heads. It's now possible to use a 3/8 inch socket wrench,
with a few long extensions, to access the bolt through the wheel arch.
I put a box wrench on the nut, then twist the bolt with the socket
wrench, until the box wrench jams itself against the chassis. Then I
simply apply a bit more torque (easily done since I'm sitting
comfortable on a stool next to the brake drum, rather than laying on my
back under the car) and loosen the bolt. I do the same thing in
reverse when putting the bolts back in. It's a much more comfortable
way to do the job, and you're less likely to round anything off.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- John North <jnorth@novagate.com> wrote:
> This looks like a pretty simple job in Bentleys... But darned if I
> can
> get the nyloc nuts off where the axle flange attaches to the
> differential. Of course I'm on my back with a foot or so of room to
> work. It's hard to get any leverage, the gaitors are in the way,
> the
> axle turns when I crank on the wrench and it's real tight between the
> yoke and the flange anywhere that I can get to the nuts.
>
> Any tips to share about how to get these nuts to move? I'm kinda
> scared about cranking too much, don't want to shear them off. Or
> are
> they just nut and bolt, easy to replace?
>
> John North
__________________________________
The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search
|