John,
Yes, there's certainly not a whole lot of room to work in there with tools.
I recall that a box end 12-point wrench was very useful on one side and a
open end wrench on the other. The box end keeps a good secure grip on the
hex head and allows small incremental unscrewing. It's a slow process but
by moving the two wrenches in opposite directions simultaneously (actually
both in respective counter-clockwise direction) you unscrew at about twice
the speed.
Unless there's alot of rust down below the nuts just need some muscle to
loosen up as years of caked road grime and the boots usually protect this
area from corrosion. Try to slip a 12"-24" piece of steel pipe over the end
of the box end wrench for added leverage. To prevent axle movement put the
car in gear so the axle locks up to the engine - just be sure the front
tires are blocked.
Greg Dito
CD6250L
----- Original Message -----
From: "John North" <jnorth@novagate.com>
To: "Triumph 6 pack" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 11:11 PM
Subject: Removing rear axle
> This looks like a pretty simple job in Bentleys... But darned if I can
> get the nyloc nuts off where the axle flange attaches to the
> differential. Of course I'm on my back with a foot or so of room to
> work. It's hard to get any leverage, the gaitors are in the way, the
> axle turns when I crank on the wrench and it's real tight between the
> yoke and the flange anywhere that I can get to the nuts.
>
> Any tips to share about how to get these nuts to move? I'm kinda
> scared about cranking too much, don't want to shear them off. Or are
> they just nut and bolt, easy to replace?
>
> John North
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