John,
Wish I could help you, but the spare rings I have are for +.040" .
Also, about that broken rod bolt. It is new, isn't it? Only new rod bolts
should be used when assembling a motor. Whatever the case, it's a whole lot
better that it broke now then when you're winding the motor out a few months
from now. Could have been very messy and expensive! I would question the
whole lot of them if they're new.
You may even want to consider ARP fasteners, serious stuff but if you want
this level of protection anywhere it's at the rod bolts. The ARP rod bolt
set can be had for $87 from Performance Research Industries
http://prirace.com/fasteners.htm#item1, about the lowest price I was able to
find. Considering a standard non-ARP set will cost about $50 anyway the
small premium is worth every penny IMHO.
Greg
CD6250L
----- Original Message -----
From: "john davis" <YEAHBABYTR6@msn.com>
To: "6pack_autox_team_net" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2003 11:16 PM
Subject: Ring help
> With this story, I wont have to go to confession this month.
>
> I was installing my new pistons in the block yesterday, on the first try I
> buggered up one of the oil rings, no spares
>
> 1st damm
>
> After taking a breather I started to torque the remander rod caps, broke a
> bolt, no spares
>
> 2nd damm
>
> The icing on the cake was when I tried to install the aluminum oil plug on
the
> front of the engine, stripped the screwdriver slot-can't get it to go in
more
> than 1/4" and now it's stuck
>
> 3rd damm plus a few more words and a screwdriver sticking out of the
drywall.
>
>
> I went to see my priest, he was no help in the engine department but was
most
> impressive in handing out the hail mary's. What I need is any help in
locating
> a oil ring setup for a .20 over piston just 1, yeah I know there only sold
in
> sets for $50+ and how the #%^+*@ do you get the oil galley plug to go in
all
> the way.
>
>
> John Davis
> 73 that may end up as a lawn ornament
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