Hi List,
First, sorry for this longish message, but I want to give you all the info for
hopefully a solution.
I'm reporting back that my problem isn't solved although I did come to find
that my distributor wasn't advancing the timing to 24+ degrees at throttle and
my original Lucus alternator was "marginal".
Since we spoke last, I have replaced the distributor, alternator (GM
conversion), original coil with a Flame Thrower, new Magnacore wires, new
points, plugs, condenser, rotor and cap.
Car idles OK and runs nice up to 3800 RPM, at which time it breaks up
(sputters) and black smoke is seen from exhaust. If I continue to hold the
throttle down, it will clear itself and then race up to 5500-6000 RPM. If I
then decelerate and then accelerate, the process starts over again with the
breakup at 3800 RPM.
The compression numbers are as follows:
Cyl 1 - 110
Cyl 2 - 110
Cyl 3 - 107
Cyl 4 - 111
Cyl 5 - 105
Cyl 6 - 114
I know these numbers are low and should be 125 or greater. I've been told that
these numbers indicated an issue with the new Integral cam. The engine
assembler (with 20 years experience) adamantly dclaimsc he did not make a
mistake as he checked it 4 times. Yet, his procedure for accomplishing this
was done with a dial gauge on the push rods (head was on) and a degree wheel on
the crank gear. His contention is that the cam is wrong for the car or the cam
timing numbers given by Integral Cams (in the instructions that were sent with
the cam shaft) are wrong. He said the cam should have simply been installed
and timed "point to point" .
What does that mean? Point to Point.
Since another 6 pack lister has the identical cam (Stage 1) from Integral Cams,
bought 1-2 months before mine, and he followed the same set of instructions and
his car has no problems (with great compression), its obvious to me that this
is an appropriate "mildly hotter" performance cam (than stock) for the TR6. I'm
leaning toward a mistake with the timing of the cam. My question is this, Can
TDC be taken off the pushrods? I know the Bentley manual has the procedure for
taking TDC off the top of the piston directly. Unfortunately, it was not done
this way with my rebuild and I'd like to know if doing it off the pushrods
would make a difference. My engine assembler say NO, it doesn't make a
difference.
Again, sorry for the long message and I hope to get this corrected soon
Regards
Seth Glassman,
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