In my experience, the screw-in fork pin ALWAYS breaks, leaving only a nub to
keep the fork positioned on the shaft. I put the new pin in and drilled a
1/4" hole through the fork and shaft and drove in a 1/4" roll pin. downside
is that if you have to replace the fork in the future, you will never get
the hole right again to accept the roll pin. I think the idea came from
this list years ago.
Mark Anderton
72 TR6
Virginia Beach
http://members.cox.net/andertonm/car_stuff.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor@webtv.net>
To: <TRDOCTOR@aol.com>
Cc: <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2003 1:27 AM
Subject: Re: Clutch and Gunst
> Sam----Those who like the softer feel in their clutch might like the
> Sachs, as reported by Nelson in his Buckeyetriumphs.org website. I like
> the B&B with the cranked diaphragm fingers. When all is well, the clutch
> should disengage with the pedal about an inch from the floor, using 35
> lb. of leg effort.
>
> You won't find much help in "shimming" the SC closer to the clutch
> operating arm, as this is a (self adjusting) hydraulic system. If and
> when you change the clutch, test if there's spongy play between the
> shaft and fork (pin) Take out the fork pin to verify that it is still in
> one piece, then consider adding a second "bolt" thru the fork and shaft.
>
> Note that a new pin in a oval shaft bore can shorten the pin's life,
> which in some cases isn't all that great to begin with.
>
> Dick
|