Jeff,
Thanks for your comments. The bushings on my starter did not appear to
allow any slop in the armature location. Something was wrong though, most
likely one or more pole shoes out of position (didn't see any marks on
these) or the bushings are indeed sloppy. Something caused for rings to be
gouged into the armature. I just got to the point where I didn't want to
spend any more time trying to fix the original starter.
I received a gear reduction starter today from British Parts Northwest and
hope to install it tomorrow. I am amazed at how much smaller the motor
itself is than the stock Lucas motor. BPNW has what seems to be a very good
price on the starter ($185.00) and the UPS charge is not bad from Oregon to
Washington. Also, no shipping cost or hassle of exchanging a core. The net
cost is probably not much more than buying a Lucas replacement. I'll let
you know how well it performs.
Gary
'73
----- Original Message -----
From: "JEFFREY FETNER" <FETNERJ001@hawaii.rr.com>
To: "Gary Fluke" <res0s0t7@verizon.net>; <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 8:26 AM
Subject: Re: brush nonsense
> Gary,
> Did you replace the front & rear bronze bushings? On mine the rotation
> and weight of the armature had worn the rear bushing oval and the armature
> had lowered. It had started rubbing on the lower field coil shoe and
would
> bind up as the torque of turning the engine kicked the armature out of
true.
> No cure except new bushings to hold the armature straight (I used the
whole
> rear part of a like-new TR-7 starter - lots of similiar starter
components)
> When you turn it by hand it does not 'kick over' like when loaded.
> Also, it might be a shorted field coil. Pretty uncommon, but examine
the
> four field coils carefully for missing/decayed cloth insulation. It's
tough
> to see because the field coil is held tight against the case by the pole
> shoe with cloth insulation squeezed in between. You can try tapping the
> case vertically on the floor and look for telltale charred 'dust' from
> burned insulation - or remove the shoes and check & reinsulate. A real
> auto-electric shop may have a way to test 'em before you get in that deep.
> Have fun!
>
> Jeff
> '74 CF13816U
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gary Fluke" <res0s0t7@verizon.net>
> To: <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 09, 2003 1:29 PM
> Subject: Re: brush nonsense
>
>
> > Jeffrey,
> >
> > Thanks a lot for your thoughts. After reading your message I decided to
> do
> > what it would take to get good connections to the brushes and that all
> came
> > out fine. As you said, the solenoid worked fine when installed on the
> > starter motor. The trouble is, when I tested the starter motor as it
laid
> > on the garage floor, it revved up OK for about 3 seconds and then slowed
> > down to a steady but slow speed. That pretty well replicated what it
does
> > when in the car.
> >
> > The armature had scoring around it but the stator windings looked OK.
Of
> > course, one can't tell too much just by looking. It didn't feel as if
the
> > armature was binding when turning it by hand but when it runs it sounds
> like
> > there is a mechanical problem somewhere. Also, the brushes I took out
of
> it
> > looked as if they had lots of wear left in them.
> >
> >
> > Gary
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