Marty,
Check the rear toe. Maybe you missed some shims behind the outside pivot
bracket.
You can check it yourself with some strings parallel to the tires at axle
height.
Have them not quite touching the outside of the tires and extending about 15
feet
back of the car to jack stands or something. Measure the distance between the
strings at the rear of the car then at four tire diameters further back. I think
the facory spec is 1/8" tow out but you may want to reduce it with harder
bushings. For 1/8" toe out the strings should be 1/2" closer at four tire
diameters back. Before changing shims make sure you know which wheel you need to
change to make the car track straight.
The other thing to check along with the toe is the camber. Maybe one of the
brackets is reversed. This will effect the camber and the ride height. There are
three different trailing arm brackets with one, two or three notches in the
edge.
Each one has a different offset changing the height of the pivot bolt. I think
the
outer bracket on the '74 had one notch on top and the inner had three on top. If
you have a level floor you can check camber with a carpenter's square or a level
up along side the wheel. Measure the difference from the square to the rim at
the
top and bottom. At 15" apart 1 degree is just over 1/4". I think the factory
spec
is 1/2 to 3/4 degree negative so the top of the rim should be 1/8" to 3/16"
further from the square than the bottom. (If your floor is level!)
Richard Good
Good Parts
The Romagni's wrote:
> Hi fellow listers,
>
> I've just completed rebuilding the rear suspension of my TR6. I pulled,
> rebuilt and re-installed the differential along with new rubber diff bushings.
> I also put in the uprated springs, rubber spring packing, hard rubber trailing
> arm bushings, new bump stops and link mounting rubbers from TRF (shocks and
> u-joints - ok < 6K miles). After I was lowered it to the ground, I noticed a
> couple of things: 1) the drivers side tire sticks out farther than the
> passengers in relation to the body and 2) the gap between the top of the tire
> and the bottom of the fender "seems bigger" although I have no starting
> measurements to back that up.
>
> My questions are about the first problem. To confirm what my eyes were telling
> me, I measured the distance between the diff flange and the brake backing
> plate and found the drivers side does stick out farther than the passengers
> side by about 9/16 in. I double-checked that everything is tight also! What
> could cause such a noticeable difference? Should I worry about this? How can I
> correct it?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Marty Romagni
>
> 1974 TR6
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