Good idea to use anti seize compound on where the bolt contacts the metal
sleeve.
Richard Seaton
----- Original Message -----
From: Gregory Dito
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2003 11:47 PM
To: Andrew Packard; 6pack (E-mail)
Subject: Re: traling arms continued
Andy,
You got it right - the brackets compress against the steel sleeve, allowing
the poly bushings to swivel about the sleeve. It's a good idea, though, to
lightly lubricate the sleeve outer surface and bushing through hole with a
moly type or white lithium grease.
Good luck!
Greg
CD6250L
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Packard" <apackard@triad.rr.com>
To: "6pack (E-mail)" <6pack@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2003 10:11 PM
Subject: traling arms continued
> Tonight was an historic evening. Not only did I receive my Heritage Motor
certificate on my car, (made June 22, 1968, shipped July 3, 1968, My
birthday, July 3, 1968) but I was actually going to be putting parts back on
my car instead of always taking them off.
> If you recall from my last episode, I had used fire to help remove the
trailing arm bushings. After using a wire wheel and my drill to clean out
the crud in the mount holes, I pressed in the new, two-halves polyurethane
bushings and inserted the metal sleeve. I then squeezed the mounting points
into the brackets, and tightened the mounting bolts to the appropriate ft
lbs. In tightening the mounting bolts, I squeezed the brackets against the
sleeve without compressing the poly-u bushings at all. The trailing arm
moved easily up and down with minimal resistance.
>
> Is this correct or do I need to shorten the metal sleeves so that the
brackets compress the bushings? I think what I did is correct, but I just
expected a limited range of motion in the trailing arms with the tension
appropriately torqued. Please help so I can continue to put parts back on.
I have a freshly painted differential (black front, aluminium cover) that
will look great mounted on my nice, clean frame.
>
> Andy
> CD6521L
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