On Sun, 29 Dec 2002, Shane Ingate wrote:
> Darcy Hunter wrote:
>
> >I'm several years away financially and otherwise from pulling the engine.
> >I'm looking down at that block, however, and am tempted to crawl under,
> >drop the pan and push out the pistons to put on new rings. I understand
> >this is not the prefered approach but I want to hear from those that have
> >tried this. I would plan on putting standard size rings back in and
> >probably honing with a fine hone to create slight cross hatch.
>
> I'm not real knowledgeable in this area, but I think that if you want a
> cast-iron
> walled cylinder to survive several years, you need to bore it and use
> over-sized
> pistons. If it is a thick steel-sleeved cylinder (which it is not), then
> honing with
> a dingle-berry and new rings should do just fine.
>
> Shane Ingate in Maryland
Ummm, the TR6 engine block is steel sleeved. It is dry-sleeved, but
sleeved nonetheless.
Honing does work, the key is whether there's a taper in the bores or that
the bores are round, but that's another issue altogether.
It does amaze me that some of the engines I've torn down with considerable
miles are still mostly round and vertually taper free. My driver TR6 has
130k miles on the original scuff-free pistons. THat's not too shabby.
rml
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