It ends up that my oil cooler is an older design. The pancake
mounts on the engine before the oil filter. Then the canister filter
mounts onto it. Yup, still have the canister filter and don't mind it.
Also, the previous owner had a round cutout made so you can get
to the filter from the wheel well. It really helps. Also the hoses slip
on and use hose clamps.
I took off the hoses from the thermostat to the radiator and the
hoses were pretty empty. It seems that I don't get the oil
temperature that hot, even though I always come blasting off the
line. Also, the thermostat did not show any leaks. I wonder if the
gasket on the oil pan is the problem. I have my mother in law's
steam cleaner. It has an attachment with a hose. I will first try to
clean the oil off with that. Then drive a lap or two and look for an
oil leak.
I would like to leave the cooler on so if someday I want to start
racing, it is there.
> Hi,
>
> If you really want to track the leak down, you can purchase additive dyes
> for your motor oil. You add the dye to the sump and run the car and then
> use a black-light to detect the dye. This'll help you find the leak the
> in the shortest amount of time.
>
> Do you need an oil cooler? I guess the answer depends on how you drive the
> car. I don't have one on my street car, but I have one on the race car.
> The race car needs it, as the oil routinely gets over 210F under harsh
> conditions.
>
> As for the hoses, the braided stainless has better protection from
> puncture or abraison. Other than that, it's overkill.
>
> If your hoses are old enough, they could just be tired.
>
> Most auto shops that do hydraulic work for trucks can make you up a new
> batch of hoses for short money. The only "gotcha" is what type of hose
> connection you have - AN type or BSP.
>
> Good luck.
> rml
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