There's a good article on suspension geometry and do it yourself
alignment ideas in this month's Grassroots Motorsports.
Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
--- "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu> wrote:
> Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2002 13:55:31 -0500 (EST)
> From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
> To: Walt Philipson <wphilipson@bigfoot.com>
> CC: 6 pack <6pack@autox.team.net>
> Subject: RE: '76 TR6 Trailing Arm brackets
> Reply-to: "Robert M. Lang" <lang@isis.mit.edu>
>
> On Mon, 4 Feb 2002, Walt Philipson wrote:
>
> > I'm finishing up replacing rear bushings with new urethanes and
> upgraded
> > springs from TRF. What's the easiest/best way to measure camber?
> Can I rig
> > something up using a spirit level and a protractor?
>
> Bring the car to a competent alignment shop and get a 4-wheel
> alignment.
>
> Measuring toe-in in your garage without the necessary equipment is an
> exercise in futility.
>
> Once you get reference numbers from the aligment shop, then you can
> tweak
> things.
>
> Now, if you are dead set on measuring yourself, you can purchase a
> really
> cheap camber/caster gauge from places like Racer Parts Wholesale -
> figure
> about $40 for a bubble gauge. This will give you "relative" camber
> measurements. If you have a bit more money to throw around, there's a
> tool
> called "SmartCamber" or something like that that you hold up to your
> rim
> to measure camber. The fancy version even has a digital readout.
> These
> tools cost $200 or so.
>
> But don't forget that when you change camber, you also change toe, so
> you
> need to check _everything_ every time you play with any one setting.
>
> To me spending $60 bucks for a proper aligment is money well spent.
>
> Especially if you only do it once every 5 years or so. If you race,
> then
> buying the equipment is cost effective, but for a normal street
> driver,
> just get the thing aligned after you do your work on it an leave it
> alone.
>
> > Walt Philipson
> > 74 tr6
>
> regards,
> rml
> 74 TR6 (and others)
>
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