A bunch of you guys wrote me back and asked for this information. This is
"quick and dirty".. If you have real specific questions write me back off-net
and I'll try and help you out. And for Steve S..... your probably right and I
probably over-reacted and went into a "cyber-rage" over what the machine did..
NOT what the person did.
One last thing not mentioned below. I made a tank to pressure prime the pump
and oil system in an effort to keep dry starting a fresh engine to the
absolute minimum. If anybody is interested in how I did this write me back
off-net and I'll send instructions and pictures on how it works and how its
made. I think the servers for this net strip off pictures and simply won't
publish it if the content is too large.
Carl
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Christopher,
A dry sump system consists of 'two pumps': the pressure pump that supplies oil
to the engine for lubrication and the scavage pump that returns oil from the
engine pan back to the dry sump tank. Usually you will have the filter on the
'exit side' of the pressure pump, between the pump and where the oil enters
the engine block. Between the scavage pump and the tank is where you'll locate
the oil cooler. Look in the Dave Bean Engineering catalog at page "Y7" for an
illustration of this.
I would recommend keeping all oil lines as short as possible, and as few a
number of bends as possible. Without getting into all the math of fluid
hydraulics, simply put, the shorter and straighter the lines the less
resistance and greater pressure (or suction) will be developed. I would also
recommend changing out the English "BRitish Standard Pipe" fittings for "AN"
fittings (my personal preference). I use Aeroquip "AN" 'dash 8' or ('dash 10'
where needed) push-on fittings and 1/2" 300psi Goodyear hose. And not to be
"pushing" Dave Bean Engineering, he has all that stuff listed in his three
catalogs. (Also check Pegasus, Summit Racing or most any shop thats up to
speed on hydraulic fittings). Another thing that will benefit your engine, if
its possible to do this, is to have the oil level in the tank higher than the
pressure inlet on the pump. Oil being a fluid, it will seek it's own level
between the tank and pump by gravity. What this means is that when you start
the engine "cold" after its sat for a while, the oil will already be at the
pressure pump inlet and there will be less time that the engine runs "dry"
before the circulation of oil reaches the bearings.
As for your question, the scavage side of the system is just that.... I picks
up oil a little at a time as it drips back into the pan and "finds" the
pickup. Thus the flow is more of a "fast ooze" rather than high pressure flow
as you have on the pressure side of the system. Whatever is the shortest route
for the scavage oil line with the fewest number of bends and rises would be
best; even if it entails more fabrication.
As a last recommendation, look at what somebody has done before you with the
same type of car. If their system works then duplicate it. (I refer to it as
"reinventing the wheel"). I prefer to capitalize on other peoples efforts as
much as I can. This goes hand-in-hand with another of my favorites..... "If it
ain't broke, don't fix it!"
Hope this info helps....
Carl Lotus 61
CarLynne Racing LLC
Sparks, NV
carlynneracing@sbcglobal.net
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