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Re: [TR] 58 TR3A battery box

To: William Brewer <billbrewer59@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] 58 TR3A battery box
From: David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2025 10:55:41 -0500
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <d421ab95c5d54092ad1d523aea2e634f@ranteer.com> <9781d3d0-f268-4596-aeed-9ab5dfece8f9@yahoo.com>
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Some years back, the battery box on my =E2=80=9859 TR3 looked like Swiss ch=
eese=E2=80=A6 I
had to remove a dozen tack welds to pry the old box out. TRF supplied a new
one. The top lip of the box has to be fitted up under the cowl while the
front lip of the box has to be able to clear the leading edge of the box
opening. I don=E2=80=99t know what the factory was thinking when they desig=
ned
these boxes but the installation of the new box may require you to bend the
sheet metal until you can get the box into the hole and under the cowl,
then =E2=80=9Cmassage=E2=80=9D it back into shape before welding it in=E2=
=80=A6.

Best of luck,

Dave

On Thu, Nov 6, 2025 at 10:46=E2=80=AFAM William Brewer <billbrewer59@yahoo.=
com>
wrote:

> Hi Dave,
>
>       25 years ago I had a similar looking battery box, but not as rusty
> higher up. I bought a small bending brake from Harbor Freight and bent a
> similar gauge sheet metal panel and pop riveted it in to the bottom. I
> had to fabricate and weld a new drain tube.  I sealed it with the best
> silicone sealant I could find and painted it all with POR15, primer and
> then body color paint. It was a pretty fast and easy project and has
> worked ever since. From above, it still looks like factory and you can't
> see the patch panel or pop rivets.
>
>       That being said though, it looks like hell from underneath the
> dashboard - oozed out silicone sealant, pop rivets and POR15.
>
>       Next time I need to do any substantial body or paintwork on the
> car I'll probably weld in a complete new battery box.
>
>       Please keep us informed as to your project and maybe do a write-up
> on lessons learned.
>
>       TIA,
>
>       -Bill Brewer
>
>       Morro Bay, CA
>
>
>
> On 11/5/2025 3:36 PM, dave northrup wrote:
> > As you can see,  the battery box is toast.  How hard is it to remove
> > the old box and put in a new one?  Or is it easier to cut the back and
> > bottom out and weld in new metal
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">Some years back, the battery box on my =E2=80=9859 TR3 lo=
oked like Swiss cheese=E2=80=A6 I had to remove a dozen tack welds to pry t=
he old box out. TRF supplied a new one. The top lip of the box has to be fi=
tted up under the cowl while the front lip of the box has to be able to cle=
ar the leading edge of the box opening. I don=E2=80=99t know what the facto=
ry was thinking when they designed these boxes but the installation of the =
new box may require you to bend the sheet metal until you can get the box i=
nto the hole and under the cowl, then =E2=80=9Cmassage=E2=80=9D it back int=
o shape before welding it in=E2=80=A6.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><di=
v dir=3D"auto">Best of luck,</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"a=
uto">Dave</div><div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><d=
iv dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Nov 6, 2025 at 10:46=E2=80=AFAM=
 William Brewer &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:billbrewer59@yahoo.com";>billbrewer59@=
yahoo.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Hi Dave,=
<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A025 years ago I had a similar looking battery box,=
 but not as rusty <br>
higher up. I bought a small bending brake from Harbor Freight and bent a <b=
r>
similar gauge sheet metal panel and pop riveted it in to the bottom. I <br>
had to fabricate and weld a new drain tube.=C2=A0 I sealed it with the best=
 <br>
silicone sealant I could find and painted it all with POR15, primer and <br=
>
then body color paint. It was a pretty fast and easy project and has <br>
worked ever since. From above, it still looks like factory and you can&#39;=
t <br>
see the patch panel or pop rivets.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0That being said though, it looks like hell from u=
nderneath the <br>
dashboard - oozed out silicone sealant, pop rivets and POR15.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Next time I need to do any substantial body or pa=
intwork on the <br>
car I&#39;ll probably weld in a complete new battery box.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Please keep us informed as to your project and ma=
ybe do a write-up <br>
on lessons learned.<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0TIA,<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0-Bill Brewer<br>
<br>
=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Morro Bay, CA<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 11/5/2025 3:36 PM, dave northrup wrote:<br>
&gt; As you can see,=C2=A0 the battery box is toast.=C2=A0 How hard is it t=
o remove <br>
&gt; the old box and put in a new one?=C2=A0 Or is it easier to cut the bac=
k and <br>
&gt; bottom out and weld in new metal <br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">triumphs@au=
tox.team.net</a> **<br>
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et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs"; rel=3D"noreferr=
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ref=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
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hs/forzion7@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.te=
am.net/mailman/options/triumphs/forzion7@gmail.com</a><br>
</blockquote></div></div>

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