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... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have purposely
canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted individually? Anyone? dp
On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote:
> Guy-
>
> I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled out a
> cracked block at that location? That is a common spot for one,
> usually from someone in the past who pulled the engine by the studs.
> At least I had an engine like that. If you haven't done so, take a
> very good look at the inside edge of the threaded hole. If you see a
> crack, that helicoil trick likely won't work.
>
> If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another solution
> would be to take advantage of the deeper hole that you've measured and
> get a shop to extend the threads of a longer head bolt. One of the
> inside longer ones might work - then shorten the other end to fit.Â
> The puzzling part is why does the stud cant to the rear - that doesn't
> sound good.
>
> Randy
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Guy
> Huggins <guy.huggins@icloud.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM
> *To:* Triumph Mailing List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block.
> Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.
> Howdy All,
>
> As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a
> wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block.
> (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be
> the one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.)
>
> A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are
> even with the block, but it wiggles like hell.
> As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away,
> but the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block.
> This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud.
>
> To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. Â (drill just 1/32â??
> oversized, tap, install insert).
> I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide
> for the drilling phase.
> I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a
> steadying device of some sort.
>
> Any and all tips and advice are welcome.
>
> The hole is 1 5/16â?? deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4â??.
> It is basically threaded top to bottom.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing.
>
>
> Kind Regards,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> guy.huggins@icloud.com
> 817.454.6415
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogeye@porterscustom.com
--
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World
go here:WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
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<p>... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have
purposely canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted
individually? Anyone? dp <br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and
Valerie DeRuiter wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:SA1PR01MB65434458E9B670E6D451104DB9749@SA1PR01MB6543.prod.exchangelabs.com">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<style type="text/css" style="display:none;">P
{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}</style>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Guy-</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled
out a cracked block at that location? That is a common spot for
one, usually from someone in the past who pulled the engine by
the studs. At least I had an engine like that. If you haven't
done so, take a very good look at the inside edge of the
threaded hole. If you see a crack, that helicoil trick likely
won't work.</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another
solution would be to take advantage of the deeper hole that
you've measured and get a shop to extend the threads of a longer
head bolt. One of the inside longer ones might work - then
shorten the other end to fit. The puzzling part is why does the
stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good.</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Randy</div>
<div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;
font-size:12pt; color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex="-1" style="display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
Triumphs <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net";><triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
on behalf
of Guy Huggins <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:guy.huggins@icloud.com";><guy.huggins@icloud.com></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Triumph Mailing List
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";><triumphs@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud
hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.</font>
<div>Â </div>
</div>
<div class="" style="word-wrap:break-word;
line-break:after-white-space">Howdy All,
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">As part the head gasket replacement project, I
need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head
stud hole in the block.</div>
<div class="">(If you were standing on the manifold side of
the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on
the manifold side.)</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">A stud goes in straight up and down until the
top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles
like hell.</div>
<div class="">As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle
starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back
toward the rear of the block.</div>
<div class="">This make it impossible to slide the head down
over the canted stud.</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert.
 (drill just 1/32â?? oversized, tap, install insert).</div>
<div class="">I am hoping that someone from the list knows of
a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase.</div>
<div class="">I know better than to attempt drilling out cast
iron without a steadying device of some sort.</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">Any and all tips and advice are welcome.</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">The hole is 1 5/16â?? deep, and the threads of the
stud measure 3/4â??.</div>
<div class="">It is basically threaded top to bottom.</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">Thanks in advance.</div>
<div class="">I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing
to fix the known thing.</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class=""><br class="">
</div>
<div class="">
<div class="">
<div class="" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);
letter-spacing:normal; text-align:start;
text-indent:0px; text-transform:none;
white-space:normal; word-spacing:0px;
word-wrap:break-word; line-break:after-white-space">
<div class="" style="word-wrap:break-word;
line-break:after-white-space">
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Helvetica;
font-size:14px; font-style:normal;
font-variant-caps:normal; font-weight:normal;
letter-spacing:normal; text-align:start;
text-indent:0px; text-transform:none;
white-space:normal; word-spacing:0px">
Kind Regards,<br class="">
<br class="">
Guy D. Huggins<br class="">
<a href="mailto:guy.huggins@icloud.com";
class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
moz-do-not-send="true">guy.huggins@icloud.com</a><br
class="">
817.454.6415</div>
<div class="" style="color:rgb(0,0,0);
font-family:Helvetica; font-size:14px;
font-style:normal; font-variant-caps:normal;
font-weight:normal; letter-spacing:normal;
text-align:start; text-indent:0px;
text-transform:none; white-space:normal;
word-spacing:0px">
<br class="">
</div>
<br class="x_Apple-interchange-newline">
</div>
</div>
<br class="x_Apple-interchange-newline">
<br class="x_Apple-interchange-newline">
</div>
<br class="">
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset class="moz-mime-attachment-header"></fieldset>
<pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs";>http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a>
</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">--
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World
go here: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/";>WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
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