> Per Randall, I will solder in a 10 ohm, 10 watt resistor (in series) with
> the ignition light in order to get the alternator to kick in at lower RPMs.
> No problem here.
Correction, the resistor should be IN PARALLEL with the light, not in series.
> I'll do this at the fuse box like John Donnelly suggested.
Guess I missed that one ... so you're going to run the line to the fuse box as
well ? Normally it only runs from the alternator to the warning light.
> Also per Randall, some electronic ignition switches have a problem with
> feedback power from the modified ignition light that causes the engine to
> run on after cutting the ignition. The solution is a diode in a series with
> the resistor.
Should be in series with both the resistor and the light. According to MSD,
it's usually only an issue with older externally-regulated alternators (which is
what I have), so maybe it's not required at all.
> Does anyone have the size for the diode, just to prevent a
> possible problem, in the event I want to convert to an electronic ignition
> at some point, and since I'm already in there installing the resistor?
MSD supplies a 100 volt, 1 amp diode. Which sounds reasonable to me. Read
http://www.msdignition.com/1troub1.htm
where it says "Engine Run-On".
> I'm having a hard time
> getting advice on exactly which fits with the greatest ease in the TR3A, and
> already has the right o'clock position for mounting.
Sorry, I can't help there.
> Some of the recommendations I came across
> were for TR 4's and TR6's,
TR4 should be basically identical, except it has more clearance for the
alternator. Which brings up another point not often mentioned ... most people
have cut away the mounting tab on the frame next to the alternator (which is
unused on LHD cars).
> An amp range in the 60's
> is probably plenty, even if I install a stereo and do a headlight
> conversion, and run them all at night with the heater and windshield wipers
> (right?).
Sure. It'll carry that electric fan, too.
Randall
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