First, I've done my homework. I've spent a couple of hours researching the
archives for information on the alternator conversion for a '59 TR3A. Sort
of all over the place, but here's some things I've found, just to put it in
one post.
I have the Dan Masters instructions. Great stuff! Still have a couple of
questions.
Per Randall, I will solder in a 10 ohm, 10 watt resistor (in series) with
the ignition light in order to get the alternator to kick in at lower RPMs.
No problem here. I'll do this at the fuse box like John Donnelly suggested.
Also per Randall, some electronic ignition switches have a problem with
feedback power from the modified ignition light that causes the engine to
run on after cutting the ignition. The solution is a diode in a series with
the resistor. Does anyone have the size for the diode, just to prevent a
possible problem, in the event I want to convert to an electronic ignition
at some point, and since I'm already in there installing the resistor?
Sourcing a pulley shouldn't be difficult. Once I source the right
alternator, I can either have my local alternator/generator repair place
match me up with a new wide pulley, or I can have a machine shop drill my
existing one to fit.
Here's the rub: the alternator itself is a matter of some dispute. I've
read Nippondenso, Delco 7127, Delco 7127-3 (if this is different from a
regular 7127?), Delco 10SI, Delco 12SI, and others. I'm having a hard time
getting advice on exactly which fits with the greatest ease in the TR3A, and
already has the right o'clock position for mounting. ( I understand that
the connectors for the TR3A are supposed to be at the 3 o'clock position
(Anthony Rhodes), and that the o'clock position is determined by viewing the
alternator from the rear
(www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml). Somehow this
o'clock position seems wrong, because that would put it on the engine side,
not the access side, wouldn't it? Some of the recommendations I came across
were for TR 4's and TR6's, and it was sometimes hard to distinguish when
recommendations on 3's were from people with 4's and 6's.
I already understand the need to have bushings between the tabs on the
alternator to keep them from sort of warping the body and shortening the
life of it. And the need to make sure the pulley aligns with the other
pulleys to again avoid shortening the life of it. An amp range in the 60's
is probably plenty, even if I install a stereo and do a headlight
conversion, and run them all at night with the heater and windshield wipers
(right?).
Some of the conversion postings were a few years old. Any new alternators
out there being used? Any good experience installing and running any of the
ones listed above?
As ever, thank you, everyone. Any pictures of the conversion would be of
tremendous value.
Terry Smith, '59 Tr3A (Pulling the pieces together to be ready for warmer
weather..)
New Hampshire
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