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RE:help wiring the ignition

To: "Triumphs@Autox. Team. Net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE:help wiring the ignition
From: Sam Gentry <hsgentry@usermail.com>
Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2002 17:03:39 -0400
Not only  does the voltage regulator on the back of the speedometer not 
absorb spikes it probably causes them.  This thing is a little heater and a 
bi-metal strip.  The battery voltage heats the heater and turns the voltage 
to the instruments off.  When it cools it turns back on.  This provides an 
average voltage of about 10 volts and makes the instruments independent of 
battery  voltage.  If the  voltage is high it turns off quicker.  If it is 
low it stays on longer.  Crude, but fairly effective.  The instruments 
don't notice the off period since they are thermal devices too and have a 
very long period.  If you bypass the regulator two things will happen.  1st 
the meters will all read high and 2nd they will change a lot with battery 
voltage.

Next time I need a voltage regulator and don't have one I will make one 
with a three terminal solid state voltage regulator from Radio Shack.  They 
probably have a 10V, but if not it is easy to use the adjustable type.

Sam

> >The back of the gage has two terminals. I would think that one
> >would go to the temperature sending unit and the other to ground
> >Is the voltage stabilizer necessary for the gage to work?
>i bet stabilizer absorbs volt spikes and protects gauge.  mine is on back of
>either tach or speedo, can't remember.  please use.  one wire of gauge to
>stabilizer, other end of stabilizer to sender unit.
>looks like this...
>ground - sender at engine -> gauge on dash -> stabilizer -> to +12v

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