-----Original Message-----
From: Herald948@aol.com <Herald948@aol.com>
To: pethier@isd.net <pethier@isd.net>; triumphs@autox.team.net
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, August 28, 2000 9:19 AM
Subject: Re: TR4 jacking
>In a message dated 08/28/2000 2:46:27 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>pethier@isd.net writes:
>
>> Jack the rear with a floor jack under the diff.
>>
>> Place 2x4s under the frame rails near the rear spring mounts to pad the
>> jackstands.
>>
>> Jack the front with a floor jack under the front crossmember.
>>
>> Place 2x4s under the frame rails near the front suspension to pad the
>> jackstands.
>>
>> Please let me know what's best.
>
>Ok, help me out. I can't understand the value of the 2x4s as opposed to the
>risk involved in using them. Even good hardwoods can split, and I can only
>see the wood in this case providing a less stable base than would a
jackstand
>whose end hopefully would "cradle" the frame rail. Too easy for the wood to
>slide, etc., as well as crumble or otherwise collapse.
I hear folks say this, but I have been using pine 2x4 under cars and trucks
for 35 years with no problems. A lot of those cars have been unibody, or
had flimsy frames (Lotus frames are 16 guage steel), and spreading out the
support over a larger area has been a good thing. Pine generally crushes at
the point of contact with a bolt head or a bit at the top of the jackstand.
This is a feature, not a bug.
The orignal point of my post was to determine that the front crossmember and
the pumpkin were proper jacking points. I have had cars in which they were
not. Jacking on the front crossmember of a Quantum Syncro can wreck the
crossmember. Jacking the pumpkin on an early RX7 will cause diff leaks.
This is the kind of thing I need to know about the TR4 before I destroy
something.
Phil Ethier Saint Paul Minnesota USA
1970 Lotus Europa, 1992 Saturn SL2, 1986 Chev Suburban, 1962 Triumph TR4
LOON, MAC pethier@isd.net http://www.mnautox.com/
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