Scott,
I have replaced my oil seal twice. First drain the diff. Remove the drive
shaft. Then remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut. Remove the nut, (
you may have to use a air impact wrench). and then remove the pinion flange.
Now the fun part. The seal is pressed in but can be removed by making a seal
puller as i did or you can chisel out the seal being careful not to damage the
diff. casing. Replacing the seal is no fun either since the seal is a bit
larger than the hole it goes in. You just have to be patient and tap it in with
a plastic hammer using a drift (or socket) the same size as the seal so you get
even pressure. Once the seal is in just replace the pinion flange etc. Tighten
the castellated bolt and dont forget the cotter pin. Attach the drive shaft,
fill up the diff. and away you go. ALso dont forget to check the pinion driving
flange to insure it is not worn. If it is worn out you will have to replace or
have a sleeve welded in place of the warn flange. You can get a used one from
TrimphsOnly for about $20. Moss or TRF dont carry the part.
Have fun,
Bob Labuz
1958 TR3A
1974 T140V
Scott Weldin wrote:
> I'm new to the list and have found the reading delightful. My 1958 TR-3A
> has been garaged for over 10 years. It was running when put away, but (big
> surprise) a number of things have deteriorated since then. Most obvious is
> that the rear axle oil has leaked out. Replacement of the rear cover gasket
> presents no real problems, but the pinion oil seal looks like a nasty
> project. Is it possible to pull the pinion flange and remove/replace the
> oil seal without disassembling the entire axle? I assume that the seal has
> dried out from lack of use. Is there a product that will soften or
> recondition the seal without replacing it? Any help would be much
> appreciated.
>
> Scott Weldin
> 1958 TR-3A
|