Great description, Brian.
I'd like to add .02 worth.
Removing the old bushings can be simplified by carefully cutting them
lengthwise with a hack saw blade. They can then be more easily
collapsed, as you describe.
While the steering column is out, check the mounting point at the
firewall. This is another weak point in the assembly. Even if it's still
in good shape, may be worth beefing up. See www.vtr.org maintenance
section article on steering columns.
You may consider having the steering column and the switch covers powder
coated with semi-gloss black, while they are all apart. I didn't. A
friend of mine did. His look great compared to my freshly painted one
which is oh so easily scratched.
Finally, when you reinstall the column, be sure to put some kind of
relatively thick washer, I used a nylon one, at the bottom end of the
column, where the adjuster comes up against it. That metal cap on the
end is pretty thin and can be worn thru very easily otherwise.
One more thing, while it's removed to this job, I recommend checking the
lower steering column universal joints. Mine looked only moderately
worn, but actually fell apart when I removed the bolts. The rubber was
so hard it was probably putting extra sideways stress on the whole
column. It's an easy rebuild, too.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
Brian Sanborn wrote:
>
> Bud,
>
> I don't want to make more of it than it is..... but here is some recent
> experience.
>
> Obviously you have to remove the steering wheel and steering column from
> the car. No secrets here with the workshop manual or the Haynes book.
> Just keep all the parts in plastic sandwich bags and clearly labeled.
>
> There are 2 sources of play... the column bushings for the shaft to ride in
> and the column mounting to the car under-dash. My car was reassembled at
> some point without all the various steering column felt pieces and spring
> clips that are shown in the parts diagram.
>
> You should remove the steering shaft from the front.... the side cups that
> hold the turn signal switch and the horn contact ring that are in the
> throat of the column. You need to be able to get access to the rubber
> mounted bushings.
>
> The trick is to drill or cut off the little round rubber nubs that position
> the bushing in the tube. My bushings would not budge with gentle force and
> soapy water so I had to use a large diameter dowel to get in from the
> drivers end through the first bush and pound out the bottom bush. I also
> ended up getting long needle nose pliers in to cave in the brass ring under
> the nylon in the old bearing to "relieve" the tension on the stuck rubber.
>
> Then working from the bottom, pound out the top one. This a good time to
> clean and repaint before re-installing because I bet you scratched it
> getting it out or the thing looks pretty sad when you see it out of the
> car.
>
> The next part is easy if you lube up the inside of the steel tube with
> soapy water and also the bushings. Carefully line up the rubber nubs on
> the new bearing so they will line up with the holes and.... Use a larger
> dowel or small piece of trim wood to drift the bottom bush in from the
> bottom and the top bush from the top. Be careful not to damage the nylon
> inserts. If they fall out just carefully re-insert them in place.
>
> Then reassemble the turn signal and covers and I replaced the horn ring
> contact assembly because mine was cracked in 3 or 4 places.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Brian Sanborn
> 62 TR4 CT16260L - Groton, MA
> sanborn@net1plus.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bud Rolofson <Bud_Rolofson@nps.gov>
> To: sanborn@net1plus.com <sanborn@net1plus.com>
> Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 6:16 PM
> Subject: Re:RE: Re: Tooting My Horn
>
> >Brian
> >
> >I'm going to replace the bushings in my steering column soon. I'd like to
> hear
> >any tips you might have to make it easier.
> >
> >Thanks
> >Bud
> >
> >____________________Reply Separator____________________
> >Subject: RE: Re: Tooting My Horn
> >Author: sanborn@net1plus.com
> >Date: 02/09/1999 10:22 AM
> >
> >
--
MZ
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