Peter
I assume you have the dreaded Zenith Stromberg carbs. If so then the
needles are probably sticking. I am not sure about fixing the line but
maybe another fuel filter is in order. The rust is likely not coming from
the small steel line but is getting past your filter. I have had the same
problem on a TR7. I installed 2 in line fuel filters. The other thing to
do is install a set of Grose Jets. It is more like a ball and socket than
a needle but does an awsome job of not sticking. They are about $3 or $4
from Victoria British. I am sure all the others like Moss or TRF also
supply them. Good Luck
John Peacock
80 TR8
80 TR7 Spider 16v
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> From: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>
> To: 'TR6 List' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: fuel lines
> Date: Friday, October 24, 1997 2:37 PM
>
> I recently rebuilt my carbs but have noticed that I still have a leak in
> one of them. I think the reason is because the needle valve is being
> clogged with little rust particles from my fuel line. I find the rust in
> the bottom of the float bowl when I take the carb apart. (I have already
> readjusted the float level to what I believe is the correct height).
>
> The suspect fuel line is the one which leads from the fuel pump around
> the front of the engine (on my TR6 this is a solid metal line). Although
> my lines from the tank to the pump are also in probably the same
> condition, I trust that the fuel filter mounted before the pump does an
> adequate job of screening the particles from those lines (is this
> correct?). I certainly see these particles in the filter when I look (I
> have the clear plastic filter installed).
>
> So the questions are:
>
> 1. Is there some foolproof test to determine that indeed the valve is
> clogged and that is why the leak?
>
> 2. Assuming the line rust is causing the leak, how should I go about
> changing the line. I know the procedure to remove and re-install it, I
> just don't know where to get another one made (all 3 catalogs don't have
> this part available). Do I just bring the old line to some shop and they
> will know what to do or is more complex than that? And what type of shop
> would do this kind of work? I assume the critical parts of this are: the
> threaded end which goes into the pump, and the proper shaping of the
> line so it routes properly and doesn't kink.
>
> 3. I have toyed with the idea of replacing the lines with the steel
> braided hose like some fancy cars seem to have (mostly race cars). Any
> opinions on this? The one advantage of the solid metal lines I see is
> that the routing is pretty straightforward once the line is bent into
> the right shape, whereas with the hose, I would need to install brackets
> to keep it away from touching the engine.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> Peter Zaborski
> 76 TR6 (CF58310 UO)
> Calgary AB Canada
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