Pat writes:
>Okay, when I replaced the rear main seal, I also replaced the whole clutch.
>I got a clutch that is made to fit a TR6 or my TR4A, I was told the part
>numbers are the same, NO diff. Okay, so I got it.
>
>Now, I am no longer able to shift into reverse without the standard
>grinding, this never happened with the old clutch ... figures hu ! I have
>min the slop in the pedal and have the fork from the slave cyclinder in the
>center hole of the bracket (arm) that throws the plate. I think the line is
>bleed okay, but not totally sure (was going to do it tonight, but my bud
>never came by...). Assuming this is not the problem, and I don't think it
>is. What could be the problem ?
>
>Thanks, Pat
>
>
>
Pat,
How could I forget?
Okay, the first thing that comes to mind is clutch adjustment. I am
guessing that most likely is the problem.
I know that everytime I have installed a clutch, it has been necessary
to go back and re-adjust everything after a couple of weeks. The disc is
somewhat rough when new and sliding between the pressure plate and
flywheel wears it quickly. If the initial adjustment is just close, the
re-adjustment would be necessary even sooner.
I assume that the rear main is no longer leaking. So, we can eliminate
the disc having oil on it. Not likely to happen anyway. I was amazed when I
did the rear main on the TR4, that the clutch was not saturated, but it
was clean, to my surprise.
We just had a great weekend with the Gathering of the Marques in Las
Cruces, N.M.
There weren't as many entrants as we had hoped for, but the quality of
the cars was unbeleivable.
Try giving the nut on the adjustment rod a couple of turns. It shouldn't
take much.
Best Regards,
Tony
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