OHF@#!
I drilled already.
Lin
On Mon, Jun 6, 2011 at 9:01 PM, Bob Spruck <mgmaven@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Lin:
>
> That bulkhead has a vertical panel on the outside (in front of the
> diff) and an angled panel on the inside. Look at your Victoria
> British or Moss diagrams. It is there to provide two cross-chassis
> surfaces to anchor the rear of the floors to the unibody - adds much
> strength that way. So there is a wedge shaped cavity between them. If
> you do use Billy's suggestion of riv-nuts, don't drill through both
> panels (unless it is too late).
>
> I would suggest mounting the fuel pump on the curved part of the
> trunk floor behind the diff, off to the passenger side. There is only
> one thickness of sheet metal there. I have had a Facet on my '67
> vintage racer mounted there since 1995 on the inside of the boot next
> to the fuel cell, but on my '72 street car I mounted one in the same
> place but on the outside, mostly to accommodate the external fuel
> lines from the external fuel tank on the street car and the internal
> fuel lines from the fuel cell in the boot on the race car. I would
> recommend using rubber spacers to minimize the vibration and noise
> and a separate little ground wire.
>
> Regarding your question about a fuel cell - they are expensive, and
> you lose all storage space in the boot, including that for the spare
> tire. You don't want to mount it on the underside of the boot floor
> like the stock arrangement since they are generally thicker than the
> tank and have a top filler. Don't cut a hole in the boot floor to
> mount it half in and half out - the sheetmetal tends to crack with
> the weight and vibration. Plus you would have to get the output fuel
> line from inside the boot to outside the boot so it goes under the
> car to the front. On my racer, I have braided SS line that runs
> through the steel bulkhead and along the passenger side of the
> transmission tunnel through the right hand steering shaft hole in the
> foot box and across the steering rack to the fuel block and pressure
> regulator on the driver side inner fender.
>
> Also , if you are going hill climbing or racing, check with the group
> you intend to race with to see if they require a fuel cell. All
> vintage race groups I have raced with for the past 20 years do, but
> if you go with NASA, EMRA, Hooked-On-Driving, etc. you may not. Are
> you going to really race or just tour around the track, do track
> days, or light schools?
>
> Enough for now. I think that covers it.
>
> Bob
>
>
>
> BZ said:
> Look for Pop Rivet Nuts. The 1/4 inch size is plenty strong
> But use steel Riv-Nuts rather than aluminum, and use a good installation
> tool...at least the ratcheting one. I don't care for the regular HF types
> that look like pop riveters. They don't squeeze the steel Riv-Nuts enough
> to
> keep them tight.
> BZ
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