The other way to run the test is to hook up a 12 volt light bulb across the
fuse. Keep on testing until the light goes out. You can also try wiggling
different parts of the harness to see if the light flickers to help pin-point
the problem area.
Steve
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Masquelier <billmasq@hotmail.com>
Sender: spridgets-bounces@autox.team.net
Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 17:21:26
Cc: spridget list<spridgets@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] wiring harness
To add on to Frank's-Go to Radio Shack or similar and get a cheap 10 amp
circuit breaker, hook two wires on to it with alligator clips on the ends of
each. Remove the fuse in question, hook one alligator clip to each fuse
contact and then run Frank's test. You will be able to hear the "pop" when it
blows and then you can reset it about 15 seconds later to do it again.BillM
> Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 20:06:44 -0400
> From: spritenut@comcast.net
> To: cbking@alum.rpi.edu
> CC: spridgets@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Spridgets] wiring harness
>
> On 7/11/2010 9:46 AM, Chris King wrote:
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > I've got a short somewhere in the dash circuit
> > 1. Patch the 31 year old harness
> > 2. Get a new harness from somewhere like British Wiring.
> > 3. Put in a universal harness like Painless.
>
> Check to see exactly when the fuse blows.
> When you step on the brakes? Then it's the brake light wire or something
> in the boot that frayed that wire.
> When the signals go left or right?
> Wipers on?
> Heater blower on?
> Check each item with all the others off until you blow the fuse.
> Most of the time, it's a wire in the trunk that got nicked and is now
> shorting out.
> If it blows with nothing on as soon as you turn on the key, it's a wire
> from the either the tach or fuel gauge hitting something it shouldn't
> under the dash.
> --
> Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ
> Lots of Sprites
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