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Every time I have had a 1275 equipped spridget with a clutch that would not
fully disengage it was due to wear at any and all mechanical points along
the way and never due to a failure of the master or slave cylinder.
1. Worn hole in top of clutch pedal
2. Worn clevis pin at clutch pedal to master cylinder push rod
3. Worn hole in clutch master cylinder push rod
4. Worn clevis pin at clutch slave cylinder
5. Worn hole in clutch release arm
6. Worn bushings on clutch release arm pivot.
7. Worn carbon throw out bearing
8. Worn fingers on the clutch pressure plate
9. Old flex hose that "balloons" under pressure.
These weak points all tend to wear out at the same rate, and fixing only one
of them will not solve the problem. They must all be renewed at the same
time.
The slave cylinder from a 1098 is a smaller bore, and can be substituted for
the correct one on a 1275. Because the bore is smaller, the same amount of
pedal travel will result in more travel of the clutch release arm.
David Riker
----- Original Message -----
From: "Guy Weller" <guy.weller@tiscali.co.uk>
To: <Weslake1330@aol.com>; <tequila.brad@gmail.com>; <dlh2001@comcast.net>
Cc: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 3:50 AM
Subject: Re: [Spridgets] Sleeving master/brake cylinders - Stainless vs.
Brass
> Fitting a longer pushrod may help, but do be careful not to "overthrow"
> the
> clutch. That is, to overcompress the clutch cover fingers which can then
> distort and destroy the clutch.
> The distance that the clutch mechanism moves between fully released and
> full
> compressed is not actually controlled by the length of the slave pushrod,
> but by the amount of fluid displaced when you press the pedal.
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