Lester,
Well, for one thing I had to find another jacking point other than under the
rear axle. After advice from the list, I put a 2X4 under the frame, supported
by jack stands. Work fine (though I did have to loosen the exhaust pipe to fit
in the 2x4).
Obviously, best to sqirt PB Blaster or the like on all the nuts, etc before
starting.
It took me weeks (working after coming home from work) but I think thats
because I didn't know what I was doing - should be a lot faster next time.
Like I said, I got all new hardware (pretty inexpensive really) before I
started.
On re-assembly I used a big C clamp to get stuff together enough so I could
start the nuts on the U bolts. I also used masking tape to hold the spacing
blocks onto the front shackle so I could start the bolts in.
The nuts on the U joints needed re-tightening at least 2 turns when I lowered
the car to the ground - no big deal, me and my beer belly had no problem
crawling underneath.
You need a vice and suitable sockets to squeeze out the front shackle bushes
out - worked great.
I just switched springs from side to side because:
1. I didn't know for sure if the springs were in fact causing the sagging.
2. The new springs are apparently made in you-know-where and are considered
shite
3. List members said that the rear sagging could even be caused by the front
springs being the problem.
4. Someone even said they replaced all front and rear springs and it still
sagged (apparently the car body can take a "set"
Hope this helps some.
Regards, Adrian
>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Lester Ewing <lewing@sport.rr.com>
>>Sent: Jun 25, 2006 11:23 AM
>>To: Adrian Jones <adrianjones747@earthlink.net>
>>Cc: spridgets@autox.team.net
>>Subject: Re: Rear springs renewal - final report
>>
>>Any "gotchas" you might care to pass on ???
>>
>>
>>Lester
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