IIRC, someone mentioned a few years back about taking a 12v buzzer, and
putting connectors on each end. Disconnect any questionable items off the
fusebox on the output side. With the key off, connect the buzzer, and then,
one by one, connect the questionable items. When the buzzer sounds, you have
found your problem circuit. Then at least you know where to trace.
I think this is how it is supposed to be done.
Brad
On 5/30/06, Dale Gleason <inaverysmallroom@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> After putting a new battery in my 74 Americano Midget and doing quite a
> bit
> of repairing and mucking about (electrically and mechanically)...
> ...the battery is robbed of it's charge/juice.
>
> What are some of the MOST likely suspects?
> Alternator / dynamo / voltage regulator / solenoid
> Loose wiring / shorted out wiring / wires touching body metal
>
> A few insights.
> 1. I have fried a few wires as of late fixing the horn. But in trying to
> rectify the battery situation I have completely dismanteled said horn only
> to find the battery still won't hold a charge.
> 2. I jumped the car today ,,,let it idle for 40 minutes (coff coff) and
> then
> shut it off. Immediately afterwards and fifteen minuted later it turned
> over
> and cranked. But thirty minutes later all I got was the clicking of the
> solenoid after a very weak starter turn. (which leads me to believe that
> those guys are on the up and up)
> 3. I have a 12v survey meter - is there somewhere I should test the
> dynamao
> or alternator ?
> 4. As is the typical board of fare, this car's electrical system is pretty
> dilapidated. So the idea that this could be a HARNESS (unseen) issue makes
> me wonder.....
>
> ANy suggestions.
> Thanks for the wisdom.
>
> Miles in Raleigh NC
>
> Any Triangle / Raleigh MG owners out there ?
> --
> www.myspace.com/tequilabrad
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