Hi Jim,
The tape should work but if not there are other ways. I think all us have been
through this. You need an extra joint before your elbow. The bleed must be on
top to get the air out, air rises up. You can use the drip method too. It
takes a while but does work. Loosen the bleed valve from under the car and let
it drip out real slowly for a while. A couple of hours normally does it.
close it and feel the pedal. if you get any movement/resistance it is working.
The clutch will self bleed if you get it started. Keep pumping it and the air
will come out eventually.
You can also disconnect the slave cylinder and let it hang to do this. It also
makes it easier to get to the bleed valve.
There is also some neat devices out there. One uses air to pressurize the
master cylinder and bleeds it that way.
There is also some nice little check valve devices to use these all help.
When I changed from a smooth case to a rib cage, the mistake I did was to
connect the slave on the rib cage directly to the hard tubing. like the smooth
case connection. This gave me no end of grief. The set up would work for a
while then leak like a fauset. I don't know how many times I was under the car
tightening this along the side of the road. It wasn't until I noticed the
extra flex tube in Moss' catalog that it occurred to me. Haven't had a leak in
several years.
cheers
ww Ricky
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