The PWDA shuttle should be centered, at that time there will be no fluid or
pressure at the switch hole. Look for the notch in the shuttle piston. That
is where the switch probe goes, and when the shuttle goes off center, the
probe is depressed, and the light comes on.
If you remove the shuttle piston, then there would be fluid
pressure at the switch which will NOT hold pressure.
Note to all, if you think your switch is leaking, since there
shouldn't be pressure there, the shuttle piston is bypassing.
Good luck.
Gotta go. Be safe.
peter C
=
At 05:05 PM 12/13/2002, bill b. wrote:
>Frank wrote:
> > What condition are the rubber brake hoses?
>
> > Is there a kinked line to the splitter?
> > Bleeder nipple open?
>
>
> > Something blocking the holes inside the master.
>
>
>The hoses are old. Probably original. They worked as
>long as the old MC leaked, for the past year.
>
>Loosened the fittings on MC and now get a bit of fluid
>from each, but seems like they should be under quite a
>bit more pressure.
>
>Disasembled the brake fluid failure PDMA
>whatchamacalit and the light switch seems to be
>defective. Its nylon and seems to be missing a part
>between the spring and the inside of the mechanism.
>Looks snapped off. I will check to see in the
>publications what it is supposed to look like.
>
>A what if? What if I remove the shuttle from the PDWA?
>With both lines meeting in the middle it should clear
>everything. Maybe I will just remove it, clean it and
>get a new switch. Since I probably won't get to drive
>it for awhile anyway.
>
>Was going to be a quick easy, bleed the brakes and go
>for a drive deal. Another 30 min. job to be measured
>in days.:-)
>
>cheers, bill b.
>
>__________________________________________________
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