The cotter pin has a nut on the bottom side (of the A-frame). Remove it
first. Drift the pin out gently and it should be reusable... Make sure the
threads aren't boogered and it is not bent if you reuse it. When you
reassemble it, take care to align the flat side to the slot on the fulcrum
pin. Take the grease nipple cap off of the fulcrum pin housing. Remove the
fulcrum pin with a large flatblade screwdriver... Under optimum
circumstances it will unscrew and come right out. Failing that, smokewrench,
sawzall, jaws of life, etc., in that order! Some tapping along the way may
help.
The fulcrum pin tends to wear but more slowly than the threads in the
A-frame. If the threads are bad in the A-frame, replace them. Peter C. has
rebuilt A-frames with grease nipples on both sides of the fulcrum pin
housing. Check the threads on the fulcrum pin as well as the tolerance to
the kingpin. Replace deficient parts. While you have everything apart, take
the king pin and spindle assembly to a competent shop for reaming. New
bushings are always too tight without reaming...
Special note: Carefully examine the A-frames for cracks where the fulcrum
pin housing is brazed to the A-frame. They have a tendency to crack there!!!
Put it all back together and enjoy a tight front end! Don't forget new or
rebuilt shocks too.
Kent
1960 Bugeye
1978 Midget
So How do you
> get the Aframe apart from the Kingpins? It looks like there is a small
> tapered pin that needs to be driven out. Then the stud that holds it
> onto the A-frame will unscrew. How do you drive the pin out, and with
> what can you grasp the stud? It looks like I can't get two nuts on it
> to remove it like a head bolt. Is it a throw away after you remove the
> stud because you tear up the threads with vice grips?
>
> Wrong way Rickie
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