If 'Santa' has deep pockets why not? Don't expect great value for money
because there are cheaper ways to get more power, assuming you opt for a big
valve and ported head. The weight saving will be useful.
Just because the head is 11 stud doesn't mean you have to use all of them if
you don't want to. Obviously it is better to have the block drilled and
tapped for the extra stud and bolt/stud. Be sure your cooling system is ok
because alloy heads will warp if overheated.
With the alloy head you can most likely go up on the CR.
Nick
In a message dated 27/11/01 08:15:24 Pacific Standard Time,
jnbrashear@GarverInc.com writes:
> Hi List, I'm kinda thinking about asking old Santa Claus for an alloy head
> for the 1275 in my Mk2 Sprite. But I'm trying to be a bit cautious becasue
> this ain't chump change we're talking about. My engine is a slightly warmed
> up street version with a Maniflow LCB header, single SU HIF 6, Kent 266 cam
> with belt drive, balanced, Nissan 5-speed, and so on......nothing really
> tricked out, just bolt-on goodies. I'd love some collective feedback on
> today's alloy heads consistent with my warmed up street driving mentality.
> Also, my block is the 9-stud variety. Looks like the photos of the alloy
> heads in the M*** catalog show the 11- stud type. I've heard one person say
> that they just drilled and tapped two more stud holes in the deck of their
> block but this seemed a little strange to me. Can anyone help me with
> discussion on this?? Thanks for your help!!
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